No one here answered, but a very helpful member from pointed me the right way, so I'll leave my progress in this thread, in case someone ever wants to take this lens apart for cleaning. The closest I got was a scheme for the older 80mm f/2.8, which is different. I've spent hours looking for info on this but found nothing that helped.
#Mamiya c330 repair lensmanual how to#
I want to take apart the front group but having difficulty.ĭoes anybody know how to undo it? Is it from the inside with a rubber stopper (#1 in the picture), or from the outside (#2 in the picture)? I've already unscrewed the front and rear groups, giving me access to the shutter (that has a bit of oil, going to clean it also). While they aren't very bad, they have a small hint of fungus around the edge I would like to clean.
It came with two lenses - the 65mm f/3.5 and the 180 Super f/4.5. I'm having trouble finding it now, but I think the pro-f may add bellows factor compensation indicator and parallex estimation to the c330, but you may want to check.Posted: Wed 1:42 pm Post subject: Mamiya Sekor 65mm and 180mm TLR lens disassembly helpīought a Mamiya C220 over the weekend, to get into medium format. One thing I'd recommend is to look at the differences between the models. I don't use the prism much, but as much as I like the waist level finder, it does make it challenging to take any photos from anywhere close to eye level. Of the accessories, I think you'll find the handle would help with ergonomics (esp the trigger) and holding steady, and if you use flash at all it gives you a cold shoe. I think you'll find that it's a great camera for portraits - the waist level finder is something people aren't used to, and it's so quiet with the leaf shutter that sometimes people don't realize you're photographing. Also, it's tricky to use anything like nd-grads or polarizers, although there are tricks to make that work. Those are reasons I went for the rb67 - I was drawn more to the macro side of things too often, and the rb67 keeps the wonderful bellows focusing of the c330. You'll definitely learn to error on the side of standing back and cropping later, rather then trying to get framing perfect in-camera and clipping your subject. depending on how close you want to get, framing can be very challenging. The only caveat would be the "found objects".
I think the 80mm will be a fine lens for it, and I think you'll love the setup for what you're talking about. I laughed when I read that the c330 was heavy- compared to the rb67, it's my light weight travel companion ). I've loved the system, although currently my main camera is an rb67. I later picked up a 135mm lens, a prism, and a trigger grip.
#Mamiya c330 repair lensmanual pro#
I got a great deal on a c330 pro f with a 65mm blue-dot lens. Make some negatives and show us how you get on with it. (v) The shutters may be difficult or impossible to repair, so if a shutter fails (particularly an old chrome shutter), you may have to replace the whole lens pair. If you're shooting into the light, even a lens hood may not save you. (iv) Everyone will agree you must use a lens hood. (I don't use color in 120, so I don't know.) (iii) Some people say that Mamiya TLRs have a characteristic pastel rendition of color, which may be true. The Mamiya TLR has a set of features shared with no other camera ever made. You should shoot a few dozen rolls to see if the camera fits your style. You will no doubt read BS about how Brand X glass is 'better', but all that means is the poster owns Brand X. (ii) The lenses are good, and some are very good. (i) The best source of Mamiya TLR data is Graham Patterson's encyclopedic treatment here. There's lots written about the Mamiya TLRs on, some of it even accurate.
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